This, according to Car and Driver, helped provide a more stable handling experience than the two previous iterations of the MR2 that were notoriously prone to snap-oversteer. It was a couple inches shorter than the NB, but has a wheelbase more than seven inches longer, its wheels pushed as far the corners as possible. Though the MR2 had less horsepower from its naturally aspirated inline-four (138 hp compared to the Miata’s 140), it was around 150 pounds lighter, proving an even better power-to-weight ratio than the golden standard for small sports cars. Let’s consider the MR2 Spyder next to is contemporary from the time, the NB Miata. Before you do, though, here’s everything you should know. There’s a good chance more people will catch on to that fact, so it’s worth considering buying one now while you can still get it dirt cheap. Modern safety regulations would never really allow for that. There wasn’t another small, affordable mid-engine sports car that came after it and there probably never will be. Moreso, we have yet to become truly nostalgic for the Spyder’s era, not in the way we have for sports cars of the ’80s and ’90s.īut the MR2 Spyder was the end of an era. There was no artificially aspirated version, either, unlike the first gen that was made available with a supercharger and the second gen that got a turbo. It forewent the iconic pop-up headlights for big, sort of frog-like headlamps and the roof was done away with completely (no t-tops here). The Spyder is the unloved son of the bunch and there are probably a few reasons for that. No, I’m talking about the MR2 Spyder, the oft-forgotten third generation MR2 produced from 2000 to 2007. You’re close, but both aren’t as reliable as you’d think and they’re increasingly becoming expensive collector’s items. You might think I’m talking about the first or second generation MR2. I don’t have an impact driver either.What if I told you that you could buy a reliable, mid-engine sports car for just a few thousand dollars? You might think I’m talking about the Pontiac Fiero (and point and laugh). The T-35 seems to grab the inset of the bolt, but when trying to rotate it, no dice and the bit comes out of the hole/ slips (and this is using strong pressure directly over the bolt and using a breaker bar as a regular ratchet handle (3/8” drive) simply didn’t apply enough torque. Any ideas to free up the bolts without drilling them out or other brutal tactics. I’ll either return it to RetroModern and lose 20% restocking fee or maybe try to sell it here. I’m not sure if I can get this installed. I don’t want to further bugger up the bolt and I just cannot get it to release (I read a thread from 2005 in which another owner had the same issue and basically pounded a T-40 Torx bit in and then got the bolts to release, but no such luck with this. When I wanted to remove the bolts of the striker (which are actually T-35 Torx button head bolts), not matter what I do and having obtained the proper bit from Harbor Freight (as no one else sells it), I cannot get the bolt to budge at all. Anyway, today, I tightened up my front hard top latches (the procedure where you cut the long nut of the latch by ~ 5 mm) and this seems to have worked well. Yes, I would assume our tops are not high theft items (as are Miata tops in some cities), but I purchased a RetroModern polished HT lock (you remove the 2 large Torx bolts from the striker and install the billet retainer and then slide the latch lock over the retainer, then it’s locked in place with a special key).
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